Build for My Son

[Dad the Builder]

My son will be driving in a few years. He likes square body chevy trucks I'm going to start teaching him now.
The plan.
1. Motor
2. Transmission
3. Put them in a roller.

For now a SBC (he will be 16, BBC when he is in trade school).
I see there are a few things to look for.
I have heard the blocks from 74 - 87 were "thinner" but on the other hand, that is when they started the 1-piece rear main which changes the crankshaft options.
Do they all bolt in a square body chevy?
I hate computers.

Just looking for suggestions.
This engine will be for a 16 year old. So pulling a John boat, a little mudding, getting to school. In other words, nothing too powerful, just something to last about 5 years he can learn with and have fun with.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

[hurst01]

OK Dad. Good idea to spend some time with the Son. I suggest showing him and letting him do as much as possible so he can have more pride in "The Build" and be able to say he did it.
Good point on the later model starting in some around 86, but not all. Around 86-87 GM began using a ONE piece rear main seal. Better because of less leakage from the seal. Around that time the composition of the block content also changed which allows the block to wear better, I have torn down mid-to-late 90 350 SBC engines that still have the cross-hatch hone marks from the factory that are nearing 200K miles. Using a 96 years 5.7 I was able to drop in a 383 Stroker crank without any clearancing what so ever. I couldn't believe it.
Now you mentioned fitment to a transmission. They will fit, same bolt pattern, but around 86 when they changed to the one piece RMS, they also changed to bolt pattern on the crankshaft for the flywheel. The bolt pattern for the torque converter remains the same. Another thing I would look for is to try to get a roller block. That is a block that comes factory with a roller cam. Not all mid-80s engines had roller cams, nor were they set up for one. There are three bosses in the valley of the block where a spider plate can bolt down. The spider pate holds the "Dog-Bones" in place that hold the roller lifters to keep them from turning. I really like the factory roller engines because the seem to run much free-er because of the friction of the flat tappet cam. Used to be I could purchase a complete SBC from Pull-A-Part for a bit over $100. They have since raised their prices to closer to almost $200 for a complete engine and accessories. You can also find a used Vortex engine sometimes for 3-4 hundred..
In addition to the roller bock I like to use the factory Vortex heads. They typically breath better and produce better power and performance than the older heads and don't require and modifications to do so. But they DO require the use of a Vortex style intake manifold which has a bit different mounting bolt pattern and is not interchangeable with the older non-vortec heads. I am currently building one now but without the roller block. I am trying to use up some of my old engines. Also, the cams between the roller and not roller edges are not interchangeable.
I know a guy that regrinds factory cams and can duplicate about any grind that GM has for about a third of the cost.
This forum is sometimes hard to raise a Moderator, so if you need some type of tech question feel free to DM me. If necessary, we could even do a face-time episode to clear up a question or two. Good luck on the build and check back for more information.

 

[Dad the Builder]

Thank you Kindly.
My Dad “taught” me like you’re saying….I held the flashlight.
Ain’t going to be that way with my son. He will do everything.
The plan is to start in May

The information is beyond helpful and thank you.
If I am understanding you correctly mid 90s block, vortec heads, vortec intake (sort carb out), flywheel compatible with that mid 90s. Crank will need to be OPS. The rest should all basically be interchangeable?

you’re the man